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Travel: History and culture of the three Baltic states

 

IN the latest of his travel features exploring off-the-beaten-track places, John Waller visits Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.

It is sometimes tempting to lump the three Baltic states into a single entity, as if they were a homogenous group. But actually they are each quite distinctive. Each country has its own unique language, its own history prior to the 20th century, and its own culture and national characteristics. Only since 1991 have these been allowed to flourish again.

Their histories during the last century are, however, similar. Each gained independence after WW1, but this was followed by brutal invasions and occupations as WW2 broke out: by the Soviet Union in 1940, the Nazis in 1942; and then by the Soviets again from 1945 until 1991. All three countries have (sometimes very graphic) museums documenting these foreign occupations.

Bradford Telegraph and Argus: Riga old town
Bradford Telegraph and Argus: Riga old town

Riga old town (Image: Submitted)

During the WW2 and subsequently, all three experienced massive population changes: as the Nazis liquidated their significant Jewish populations; and then the Soviets deported intellectuals and dissenters to Siberia, to be replaced by ethnic Russians. All three enthusiastically joined the EU as soon as they were able. All have well-preserved (though very different) ‘old towns’ where most visitors congregate.

Estonia is the northernmost of the three: population approximately one million, capital Tallinn, with the most distinctive old town, still partially walled and with plenty of towers and turrets. It includes St Olaf’s church: in the 16th century the tallest structure in Europe. Its language is related to Finnish; and Estonia’s outlook is Nordic; with quick and easy ferry links with Helsinki. It is probably the most digitised country in the world, with wifi access even in the deepest forests (of which there are many). It is also one of the least religious countries in the

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